{"id":17852,"date":"2025-10-27T04:15:13","date_gmt":"2025-10-27T04:15:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/?p=17852"},"modified":"2025-12-08T08:26:34","modified_gmt":"2025-12-08T08:26:34","slug":"ski-and-snowboard-base-repair","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/","title":{"rendered":"Ultimate Guide to Ski and Snowboard Base Repair"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Skis and snowboards inevitably pick up nicks and gouges from rocks, rails, and normal wear. With the right tools, you can perform most base repairs at home, including snowboard bottom repair. This snowboarding repair guide explains how to identify scratches and core shots, lists essential tools, and shows when to fix it yourself or take it to a pro.<\/p>\n<div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_84 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-light-blue ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\" style=\"cursor:inherit\">Table of Contents<\/p>\n<label for=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-item-6a41491a3cbbf\" class=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-label\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseProfile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/label><input type=\"checkbox\"  id=\"ez-toc-cssicon-toggle-item-6a41491a3cbbf\"  aria-label=\"Toggle\" \/><nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1 ' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#Common_Base_Damage_and_How_to_Identify_It\" >Common Base Damage and How to Identify It<\/a><ul class='ez-toc-list-level-3' ><li class='ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#1_Shallow_Gouges\" >1. Shallow Gouges<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#2_Medium_Depth_Gouges\" >2. Medium Depth Gouges<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#3_Core_Shot_Snowboard_and_Deep_Gouges\" >3. Core Shot Snowboard and Deep Gouges<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-5\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#4_Edge_Damage\" >4. Edge Damage<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-6\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#%F0%9F%9B%A0%EF%B8%8F_Snowboard_and_Ski_Base_Repair_Tools\" >\ud83d\udee0\ufe0f Snowboard and Ski Base Repair Tools<\/a><ul class='ez-toc-list-level-3' ><li class='ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-7\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#1_P-Tex_Sticks_or_Candles\" >1. P-Tex Sticks or Candles<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-8\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#2_P-Tex_Repair_Iron_or_Hot_Gun\" >2. P-Tex Repair Iron or Hot Gun<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-9\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#3_Metal_Scrapers\" >3. Metal Scrapers<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-10\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#4_Edge_Files_and_Diamond_Stones\" >4. Edge Files and Diamond Stones<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-11\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#5_Base_Cleaner_and_Brushes\" >5. Base Cleaner and Brushes<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-12\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#6_Epoxy_or_Glue\" >6. Epoxy or Glue<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-13\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#7_Clamps_or_Vise\" >7. Clamps or Vise<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-14\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#8_Safety_Gear\" >8. Safety Gear<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-15\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#Ski_and_Snowboard_Base_Repair\" >Ski and Snowboard Base Repair<\/a><ul class='ez-toc-list-level-3' ><li class='ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-16\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#Repairing_Shallow_Gouges\" >Repairing Shallow Gouges<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-17\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#Filling_Medium_Depth_Gouges_with_P-Tex\" >Filling Medium Depth Gouges with P-Tex<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-18\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#Repairing_Core_Shots_and_Deep_Gouges\" >Repairing Core Shots and Deep Gouges<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-3'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-19\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#Fix_Snowboard_Edge\" >Fix Snowboard Edge<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-20\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#Comparing_Repair_Methods_P-Tex_vs_Base_Welding\" >Comparing Repair Methods: P-Tex vs Base Welding<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-21\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#Safety_Tips_and_When_to_Seek_Professional_Help\" >Safety Tips and When to Seek Professional Help<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-22\" href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-and-snowboard-base-repair\/#Conclusion\" >Conclusion<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Common_Base_Damage_and_How_to_Identify_It\"><\/span>Common Base Damage and How to Identify It<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_17898\" style=\"width: 910px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-17898\" class=\"size-full wp-image-17898\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/common-case-damage-on-ski-and-snowboards.jpg\" alt=\"common case damage on ski and snowboards\" width=\"900\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/common-case-damage-on-ski-and-snowboards.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/common-case-damage-on-ski-and-snowboards-500x167.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/common-case-damage-on-ski-and-snowboards-350x117.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/common-case-damage-on-ski-and-snowboards-768x256.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-17898\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">common case damage on skis and snowboards<\/p><\/div>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"1_Shallow_Gouges\"><\/span>1. Shallow Gouges<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p><strong>Depth &amp; Appearance:<\/strong> Fine lines or nicks, usually less than 0.5\u202fmm deep; appear as white streaks or light scratches on colored bases.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Feel:<\/strong> Slight edge or depression detectable by running your finger over the base.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Impact on Performance:<\/strong> Minimal; usually doesn\u2019t slow you down.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Repair Tips:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Hard to fill with P-Tex due to shallow depth.<\/li>\n<li>Scrape off raised edges using a metal scraper or razor.<\/li>\n<li>Apply fresh wax \u2014 often makes scratches nearly invisible.<\/li>\n<li>For many fine scratches or perfectionists, a professional stone grind can fully remove shallow damage.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"2_Medium_Depth_Gouges\"><\/span>2. Medium Depth Gouges<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p><strong>Depth &amp; Appearance:<\/strong> Cuts \u22651\u202fmm that do not penetrate through the base; base material is missing, but underlying <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fiberglass\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">fiberglass<\/a> or wood remains intact.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Shape:<\/strong> Often V-shaped or U-shaped divots.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Cause:<\/strong> Small pebble impacts are common.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Repair Tips:<\/strong> Can usually be repaired at home using melted P-Tex \u2014 one of the easiest ways to fix snowboard base damage.<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"3_Core_Shot_Snowboard_and_Deep_Gouges\"><\/span>3. Core Shot Snowboard and Deep Gouges<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p><strong>Definition:<\/strong> Gouges that penetrate through the fiberglass layer into the core (usually wood).<\/p>\n<p><strong>Appearance:<\/strong> Exposed fiberglass strands or wood grain; metal edges may be cracked.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Risk:<\/strong> Water damage to the core if not properly sealed.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Repair Tips:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Small core shots (narrow cuts) may be repaired at home with careful preparation.<\/li>\n<li>Large core shots (&gt;1 square inch) are best handled by professionals.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"4_Edge_Damage\"><\/span>4. Edge Damage<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p><strong>Indicators:<\/strong> Bent or nicked metal edges, dents, burrs, rust, or shiny\/glinting spots from work-hardened steel.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Inspection:<\/strong> Use a bright light at an angle; run a diamond stone or fingernail along the steel to feel rough spots.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Repair Tips:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Minor burrs or rust can be polished out, but if the damage extends to the base, you\u2019ll need to fix the snowboard base first before tuning the edges.<\/li>\n<li>Major dents or missing sections require professional repair.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"%F0%9F%9B%A0%EF%B8%8F_Snowboard_and_Ski_Base_Repair_Tools\"><\/span>\ud83d\udee0\ufe0f Snowboard and Ski Base Repair Tools<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_17895\" style=\"width: 860px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-17895\" class=\"wp-image-17895\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/snowboard-and-ski-base-repair-tool.jpg\" alt=\"snowboard and ski base repair tools\" width=\"850\" height=\"497\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/snowboard-and-ski-base-repair-tool.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/snowboard-and-ski-base-repair-tool-500x292.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/snowboard-and-ski-base-repair-tool-350x205.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/snowboard-and-ski-base-repair-tool-768x449.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-17895\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">snowboard and ski base repair tools<\/p><\/div>\n<p>These are the essential tools and materials you\u2019ll need for any DIY snowboarding repair project.<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"1_P-Tex_Sticks_or_Candles\"><\/span>1. P-Tex Sticks or Candles<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p><strong>Purpose: <\/strong>P-Tex sticks are commonly used for snowboard bottom repair and to fix snowboard base scratches or gouges.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Types:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Standard P-Tex (black or clear):<\/strong> Common type, melted with a lighter or repair gun.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Sintered P-Tex Rods \/ Base-Weld Wire (e.g., \u201cSlick Sticks\u201d):<\/strong> Contain <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Epoxy\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">epoxy<\/a> for stronger bonding, ideal for deeper or larger repairs.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"2_P-Tex_Repair_Iron_or_Hot_Gun\"><\/span>2. P-Tex Repair Iron or Hot Gun<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p><strong>Purpose:<\/strong> Melts P-Tex evenly into the damaged base.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Advantages:<\/strong> Provides controlled, consistent heat for clean, durable repairs.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Alternative:<\/strong> If you don\u2019t have a repair iron, you can use a P-Tex candle and lighter, though results may be rougher.<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"3_Metal_Scrapers\"><\/span>3. Metal Scrapers<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p><strong>Purpose:<\/strong> Levels the repaired area after P-Tex has cooled.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Recommended Tools:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Surform Tool:<\/strong> A small grater-style tool for quickly removing excess P-Tex.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Steel Scraper:<\/strong> Used afterward to create a smooth, flat finish on the base.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"4_Edge_Files_and_Diamond_Stones\"><\/span>4. Edge Files and Diamond Stones<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p>Purpose: For repairing and sharpening steel edges \u2014 essential tools for any edge repair snowboard work.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Tools:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Metal File (8\u201310\u2033) with File Guide:<\/strong> Ensures a precise edge bevel.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Diamond Stones (200\u2013400 grit):<\/strong> Removes burrs and polishes edges.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Pocket Diamond Stone:<\/strong> Handy for quick edge touch-ups on the hill.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"5_Base_Cleaner_and_Brushes\"><\/span>5. Base Cleaner and Brushes<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p><strong>Purpose:<\/strong> Cleans the base before any repair work.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Procedure:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Apply base cleaner or wax remover and let it dry for about 15 minutes.<\/li>\n<li>Wipe off residue and scrape away loose material.<\/li>\n<li>Use a stiff nylon or brass brush to clean wax and debris from scratches.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"6_Epoxy_or_Glue\"><\/span>6. Epoxy or Glue<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p><strong>Purpose:<\/strong> Used to seal exposed cores or attach base patches.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Recommendation:<\/strong> Use a strong two-part or marine-grade epoxy (e.g., JB Weld).<\/p>\n<p><strong>Application:<\/strong> Bonds damaged core fibers or secures P-Tex sheet patches in large repairs.<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"7_Clamps_or_Vise\"><\/span>7. Clamps or Vise<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p><strong>Purpose:<\/strong> Holds parts in place while the epoxy cures or repairs set.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Recommendation:<\/strong> Small C-clamps or a ski vise work well to stabilize the ski during repair.<\/p>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"8_Safety_Gear\"><\/span>8. Safety Gear<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p><strong>Safety Notes:<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid fumes from P-Tex or epoxy.<\/li>\n<li>Wear gloves when handling epoxy or hot tools.<\/li>\n<li>Use eye protection when scraping or filing.<\/li>\n<li>Always unplug irons or torches when not in use.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Ski_and_Snowboard_Base_Repair\"><\/span>Ski and Snowboard Base Repair<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_17887\" style=\"width: 860px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-17887\" class=\"wp-image-17887\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/snowboard-base-check.jpg\" alt=\"snowboard base check\" width=\"850\" height=\"427\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/snowboard-base-check.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/snowboard-base-check-500x251.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/snowboard-base-check-350x176.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/snowboard-base-check-768x386.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-17887\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Check your skis and snowboard base carefully.<\/p><\/div>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Repairing_Shallow_Gouges\"><\/span>Repairing Shallow Gouges<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<p><strong>Step 1: Clean the Base<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Wipe the base thoroughly with a clean cloth.<\/li>\n<li>If the surface feels waxy or dirty, use a base cleaner.<\/li>\n<li>Scrape away any loose plastic or debris using a scraper or single-edge razor blade.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 2: Remove High Spots<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>For superficial scratches (less than 0.5 mm deep), filling may not be necessary.<\/li>\n<li>Carefully shave off any raised edges or loose flaps of plastic with a razor blade or scraper to make the area smooth.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 3: Apply Hot Wax<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>After cleaning and smoothing, apply a generous coat of hot wax over the scratch.<\/li>\n<li>Allow the wax to cool completely.<\/li>\n<li>Scrape off the excess wax until the surface feels even.<\/li>\n<li>In most cases, the wax will fill or hide the shallow scratch effectively.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 4: (Optional) Professional Base Grind<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>If there are many small scratches or you want a perfectly smooth finish, take your board to a shop for a professional stone grind.<\/li>\n<li>This process evenly removes a thin layer from the base for a like-new surface.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Tip:<\/strong> Minor, fine scratches can often be left alone \u2014 regular hot waxing will usually fill them enough that they won\u2019t affect glide or performance.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Filling_Medium_Depth_Gouges_with_P-Tex\"><\/span>Filling Medium Depth Gouges with P-Tex<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<div class=\"su-youtube su-u-responsive-media-yes\"><iframe width=\"600\" height=\"400\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/WGJ5e3Hq99Q?\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen allow=\"autoplay; encrypted-media; picture-in-picture\" title=\"Synchronize\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p><strong>Step 1: Prep the Base<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Clean the damaged area thoroughly to remove all wax, dirt, and debris.<\/li>\n<li>Use a sharp scraper or knife to cut away any loose or frayed base material.<\/li>\n<li>Make sure the edges around the gouge are solid so the P-Tex can bond properly.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 2: Light the P-Tex<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Choose a P-Tex stick (black or clear to match your base).<\/li>\n<li>Ignite one end with a lighter and maintain a small blue flame\u2014avoid large orange flames, as they produce soot.<\/li>\n<li>When the tip becomes soft and gooey, it\u2019s ready to drip.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 3: Drip the P-Tex<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Slowly drip the molten P-Tex into the gouge(this step is the heart of any ptex snowboard repair).<\/li>\n<li>Keep the flame just at the tip of the stick and rotate it to control the flow.<\/li>\n<li>Slightly overfill the gouge so the repair sits above the base level.<\/li>\n<li>For deep gouges, apply the P-Tex in layers\u2014let each layer cool before adding the next.<\/li>\n<li>Work in a well-ventilated area.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 4: Cool and Scrape<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Let the P-Tex cool completely (about 30 minutes).<\/li>\n<li>Use a Surform shaver or razor blade to remove excess material.<\/li>\n<li>Then use a sharp metal scraper to level the repair flush with the base.<\/li>\n<li>Check your work using a straightedge or by sight to ensure it\u2019s even.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 5: Finish the Base<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Smooth any ridges with a fine file or stone.<\/li>\n<li>Apply hot wax to the entire base to seal and condition the repaired area.<\/li>\n<li>Once cooled, scrape and brush the wax for a smooth finish.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Note:<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>P-Tex candles are convenient but softer than the factory base, so they wear faster.<\/p>\n<p>For a stronger, longer-lasting repair, use a P-Tex iron or gun with quality P-Tex wire.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Repairing_Core_Shots_and_Deep_Gouges\"><\/span>Repairing Core Shots and Deep Gouges<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<div id=\"attachment_17903\" style=\"width: 860px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-17903\" class=\"wp-image-17903\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/use-a-scraper-to-clear-the-damaged-area.jpg\" alt=\"use a scraper to clear the damaged area\" width=\"850\" height=\"428\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/use-a-scraper-to-clear-the-damaged-area.jpg 896w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/use-a-scraper-to-clear-the-damaged-area-500x252.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/use-a-scraper-to-clear-the-damaged-area-350x176.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/use-a-scraper-to-clear-the-damaged-area-768x387.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 850px) 100vw, 850px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-17903\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use a scraper to clear the damaged area<\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>Step 1: Clean and Assess<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Remove all dirt, wax, and debris from the damaged area using a scraper.<\/li>\n<li>Examine the exposed core.<\/li>\n<li>If you find splinters of wood or fiberglass sticking out, either epoxy them back in place or remove them cleanly for a solid repair surface.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 2: Seal the Core<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Before applying any P-Tex, seal the core to prevent moisture damage.<\/li>\n<li>Use a strong waterproof epoxy (such as marine epoxy or JB Weld).<\/li>\n<li>Press the epoxy into any cracks or exposed areas of wood or fiberglass.<\/li>\n<li>Allow the epoxy to cure completely\u2014typically 24 hours\u2014to ensure a waterproof barrier.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 3: Cut Out the Damaged Base (Optional, for Large Areas)<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>If the damaged section is larger than about 1 inch (2.5 cm), it\u2019s often best to cut it into a clean, simple shape (square or rectangle).<\/li>\n<li>Use a sharp knife and template to cut straight edges around the gouge.<\/li>\n<li>Remove any loose or ragged base material within the outline.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 4: Glue in a P-Tex Patch (for Large Damage)<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Cut a piece of sintered P-Tex sheet slightly larger than the hole.<\/li>\n<li>Make sure the rough side faces downward\u2014the epoxy adheres better to it.<\/li>\n<li>Apply epoxy to the edges of the cut-out and press the patch into place.<\/li>\n<li>Clamp the patch flat using wooden blocks or metal plates.<\/li>\n<li>Leave it clamped until the epoxy cures completely (check product instructions for curing time).<\/li>\n<li>Once cured, scrape the patch flush with the base and wax over it.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 5: Melt P-Tex (for Small Core Shots)<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>For narrower or shallow core shots, follow the standard P-Tex snowboard repair method after sealing the core.<\/li>\n<li>Remember: P-Tex alone doesn\u2019t bond well to wood or metal, so sealing first is essential.<\/li>\n<li>For better adhesion near metal edges, mix in Metalgrip repair string or use epoxy-infused P-Tex rods (\u201cwelding\u201d sticks).<\/li>\n<li>These materials melt and bond more strongly than regular P-Tex candles.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 6: Finish the Repair<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Once the patch or P-Tex fill has cured, trim and scrape the area level with the rest of the base.<\/li>\n<li>If the base is heavily worn and not perfectly flat, consider a professional stone grind to even it out.<\/li>\n<li>Finish by hot waxing and brushing the entire base for smooth glide and protection.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 7: Know When to Seek Professional Help<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>If the core shot extends into the edge, covers a large area, or you can clearly see wood or fiberglass, it\u2019s best to take it to a ski shop.<\/li>\n<li>Shops use base-welding machines that fuse plastic at higher temperatures for a stronger, longer-lasting repair.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Note:<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>If the damage is larger than a quarter or exposes wood, go to a pro.<\/p>\n<p>Professional repairs typically cost $20\u201330 and provide a durable, factory-quality finish.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h3><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Fix_Snowboard_Edge\"><\/span>Fix Snowboard Edge<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h3>\n<div class=\"su-youtube su-u-responsive-media-yes\"><iframe width=\"600\" height=\"400\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/xEsudlK1kJ0?\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen allow=\"autoplay; encrypted-media; picture-in-picture\" title=\"Synchronize\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p>When your ski or snowboard base takes a hit, the metal edges often suffer too. Follow these edge repair snowboard steps to fix and maintain your edges at home.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 1: Remove Burrs<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Check for sharp burrs or rough spots along the metal edges\u2014these are usually caused by rocks or regular wear.<\/li>\n<li>Use a coarse diamond stone to smooth them out.<\/li>\n<li>Hold the stone flat against the edge and make a few light, even strokes along its length.<\/li>\n<li>You\u2019ll feel and hear the edge transition from rough to smooth as the burrs are removed.<\/li>\n<li>Avoid pressing too hard\u2014remove burrs, not steel.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 2: Sharpen and Bevel the Edges<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Once the burrs are gone, use a file and file guide to reset or maintain the bevel.<\/li>\n<li>Most skis have a side-edge angle of 88\u00b0 or 89\u00b0 (check your manufacturer\u2019s specs).<\/li>\n<li>Secure the file guide on the ski, place the file in it, and push along the edge in smooth, continuous strokes from tip to tail.<\/li>\n<li>Repeat until the edge feels uniformly sharp.<\/li>\n<li>If needed, lightly file the base edge using a base-edge guide (usually 0.5\u00b0\u20131\u00b0), though this is less common for recreational skis.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 3: Polish the Edges<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>After filing, polish to remove any fine burrs left by the file.<\/li>\n<li>Use a 200\u2013300 grit diamond stone (or finer) in the same guide and make light, even passes along the edge.<\/li>\n<li>For a mirror finish and maximum sharpness, progress through finer stones (400\u2013600 grit).<\/li>\n<li>Regularly inspect edges\u2014if you store skis in damp places, burrs can reappear overnight.<\/li>\n<li>A pocket diamond stone is handy for quick touch-ups at the hill.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 4: Fix Bent or Broken Edges<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Bent edge: Gently bend it back into shape using pliers or a light tap with a hammer on a solid surface or in a vise.<\/li>\n<li>Apply a bit of epoxy to seal any visible cracks and clamp until cured.<\/li>\n<li>Broken or missing edge: If a section of edge is split out or missing, it usually requires cutting out the damaged area and installing a replacement edge strip\u2014this should be done by a professional technician.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 5: Know When to Visit a Shop<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>If the edges are severely bent, deeply gouged, or peeled away from the base, home repair may not restore full performance.<\/li>\n<li>A ski shop can perform a stone grind to flatten the base and machine-tune the edges for perfect sharpness and uniformity.<\/li>\n<li>Professional service is often faster, cleaner, and cost-effective for serious damage.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Step 6: Maintain Daily Edge Care<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Before or after each ski day, run a gummy stone or fine diamond stone lightly along both edges to keep them burr-free.<\/li>\n<li>Always dry your skis thoroughly and apply wax after skiing, especially in wet or slushy conditions\u2014this protects both the base and the edges from rust and corrosion.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Comparing_Repair_Methods_P-Tex_vs_Base_Welding\"><\/span>Comparing Repair Methods: P-Tex vs Base Welding<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<style class=\"wpcode-css-snippet\">.drz-table {\r\n  width: 100%;\r\n  max-width: 900px;    \r\n  border-collapse: collapse;\r\n  font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;\r\n  font-size: 15px;\r\n  text-align: left;\r\n  box-shadow: 0 4px 8px rgba(0,0,0,0.05);\r\n  border-radius: 6px;\r\n  overflow: hidden;    \r\n}\r\n\r\n.drz-table th,\r\n.drz-table td {\r\n  border: 1px solid #ddd;\r\n  padding: 12px 16px;\r\n}\r\n\r\n.drz-table thead tr {\r\n  background: #1976d2;\r\n  color: #fff;\r\n}\r\n\r\n\r\n@media screen and (max-width: 768px) {\r\n  .drz-table,\r\n  .drz-table thead,\r\n  .drz-table tbody,\r\n  .drz-table th,\r\n  .drz-table td,\r\n  .drz-table tr {\r\n    display: block;\r\n    width: 100%;\r\n  }\r\n\r\n  .drz-table thead {\r\n    display: none;\r\n  }\r\n\r\n  .drz-table tr {\r\n    margin-bottom: 15px;\r\n    border-bottom: 1px solid #ddd;\r\n  }\r\n\r\n  .drz-table td {\r\n    padding: 8px;\r\n    display: flex;\r\n    justify-content: space-between;\r\n    background: none !important;\r\n  }\r\n\r\n  .drz-table td::before {\r\n    content: attr(data-label);\r\n    font-weight: bold;\r\n    width: 40%;\r\n    flex-shrink: 0;\r\n  }\r\n}\r\n<\/style>\n<table class=\"drz-table\">\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Method<\/th>\n<th>Overview<\/th>\n<th>Pros<\/th>\n<th>Cons<\/th>\n<th>Best Use<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr class=\"easy\">\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Method\">P-Tex Candles<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Overview\">Simple, low-cost DIY melt-in repair.<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Pros\">Quick and easy for small scratches.<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Cons\">Weaker bond; may leave carbon spots.<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Best Use\">Minor gouges not reaching the core.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"medium\">\n<td data-label=\"Method\">P-Tex Repair Iron \/ Gun<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Overview\">Controlled heat tool for cleaner melting.<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Pros\">Stronger, more uniform repair.<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Cons\">Needs proper P-Tex sticks; slower process.<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Best Use\">Small to medium base damage.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"hard\">\n<td data-label=\"Method\">Air Welder \/ Hot Glue Gun (Base Weld)<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Overview\">Shop-grade fusion using weld rods with epoxy.<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Pros\">Very strong, long-lasting repair.<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Cons\">Requires skill and specialized tools.<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Best Use\">Deep gouges or core shots.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"medium\">\n<td data-label=\"Method\">Epoxy vs P-Tex<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Overview\">Used for bonding or sealing core areas.<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Pros\">Excellent adhesion for patches.<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Cons\">Too hard and brittle as a surface filler.<\/td>\n<td style=\"text-align: left;\" data-label=\"Best Use\">Core sealing and patch gluing.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<hr \/>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Safety_Tips_and_When_to_Seek_Professional_Help\"><\/span>Safety Tips and When to Seek Professional Help<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_17901\" style=\"width: 810px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-17901\" class=\"wp-image-17901\" src=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/seek-professional-help-for-ski-and-snowboard-base-repair.jpg\" alt=\"seek professional help for ski and snowboard base repair\" width=\"800\" height=\"661\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/seek-professional-help-for-ski-and-snowboard-base-repair.jpg 948w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/seek-professional-help-for-ski-and-snowboard-base-repair-500x413.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/seek-professional-help-for-ski-and-snowboard-base-repair-350x289.jpg 350w, https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/seek-professional-help-for-ski-and-snowboard-base-repair-768x634.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-17901\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Seek professional help for ski and snowboard base repair<\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>Ventilate<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Always work in a well-ventilated area. Melting P-Tex releases fumes that are best not inhaled.<\/p>\n<p>A window or fan is advisable. A simple dust mask helps for sanding or filing edges.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Protective Gear<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Wear gloves when handling hot tools or epoxy. Be careful with hot irons and torches to avoid burns.<\/p>\n<p>Eye protection is wise when filing edges or cutting base material.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Pro vs. DIY<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Minor damage: Small scratches or gouges can be fixed at home with P-Tex.<\/li>\n<li>Major damage: Large core shots, split edges, or deep multiple gouges should go to a ski shop.<\/li>\n<li>Why pros help: They have stone grinders, strong base welders, and the experience to make repairs last.<\/li>\n<li>Tip: If you\u2019re unsure\u2014or think a repair might make things worse\u2014let a professional handle it. Even experienced skiers do small fixes at home but still get a full tune once a season.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<hr \/>\n<h2><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Conclusion\"><\/span>Conclusion<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n<p>Regular waxing and snowboard bottom repair keep your board fast, smooth, and protected from long-term damage. With patience and the right tools, you can easily handle most minor to medium repairs at home \u2014 saving money and extending the life of your gear.<\/p>\n<p>For larger core shots, edge damage, or structural issues, professional repair is the smarter move. Tune shops have the equipment and experience to restore your base to near-factory condition, ensuring durability and top performance.<\/p>\n<p>Whether you prefer to DIY or schedule a seasonal tune-up, consistent care is key. Keep your base clean, waxed, and smooth \u2014 and your gear will reward you with better glide, control, and confidence on every run.<\/p>\n<div class=\"su-box su-box-style-glass\" id=\"\" style=\"border-color:#0000b1;border-radius:5px;max-width:none\"><div class=\"su-box-title\" style=\"background-color:#0913e4;color:#FFFFFF;border-top-left-radius:3px;border-top-right-radius:3px\">Related Reading<\/div><div class=\"su-box-content su-u-clearfix su-u-trim\" style=\"border-bottom-left-radius:3px;border-bottom-right-radius:3px\">\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/how-to-choose-ski-goggles\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">How to Choose Ski Goggles<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/snowboard-types\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Snowboard Types | Ultimate Choosing Guide &amp; Expert Advise<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/best-early-season-ski-resorts-in-america\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Best Early-Season Ski Resorts in America<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-safety-tips\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">15 Essential Ski Safety Tips On the Slopes<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/what-are-the-ratings-for-ski-slopes\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">What are the ratings for ski slopes?\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/snowmobiling-must-haves\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">22 Snowmobiling Must-Haves: The Ultimate List<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/ski-helmet-headphones\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">10 Best Ski Helmet Headphones\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Skis and snowboards inevitably pick up nicks and gouges from rocks, rails, and normal wear. With the right tools, you can perform most base repairs at home, including snowboard bottom repair. This snowboarding repair guide explains how to identify scratches and core shots, lists essential tools, and shows when to fix it yourself or take [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":17882,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[94,66,29,52,95],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-17852","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-education","category-powersports","category-safety","category-ski-and-snowboard","category-troubleshoot"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17852","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=17852"}],"version-history":[{"count":30,"href":"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17852\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":18483,"href":"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17852\/revisions\/18483"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/17882"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=17852"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=17852"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.fodsports.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=17852"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}