Different Types of Motorcycle Clutches: A Complete Guide

A motorcycle clutch is the device that connects and disconnects the engine from the transmission, letting you change gears smoothly. When you pull the clutch lever (usually on the left handlebar), it separates a stack of friction plates inside the clutch, temporarily “disconnecting” the spinning engine from the gearbox.

Releasing the lever clamps the plates together again, so power flows to the rear wheel. Clutches come in two broad styles: wet clutches (bathed in engine oil) and dry clutches (running without oil). Inside most motorcycle clutches, you’ll find multiple interleaved friction and steel plates – this “multi-plate” design allows a compact clutch to transmit high torque.

Wet Clutches (Oil-Bathed)

Motorcycle wet clutches

Wet clutches are the most common on modern bikes. In a wet clutch, the plates are continuously soaked in engine oil. The oil cools the clutch and provides lubrication, so wear and tear are minimized.

For example, “the same oil is used for the engine to soak the clutch,” and this yields long life and high efficiency. Wet clutches are quiet in operation, and any friction losses are small.

• Pros: Longer service life; smoother, quieter engagement; very high torque capacity; inexpensive design.
• Cons: Slight reduction in engine output (drag from oil); requires oil changes as part of routine maintenance.

Dry Clutches

motorcycle dry clutches

A dry clutch runs without any oil bath. The clutch pack is exposed to air (and often visible through a clear cover on some bikes). Dry clutches deliver very direct power transfer since there’s no oil drag. They are easier to service or replace because no oil has to be drained.

Dry clutches are mainly found on high-performance or racing machines – for example, Ducati uses dry clutches on some superbikes. However, running without oil means more rapid wear. Dry clutches heat up faster and tend to be quite noisy when engaging.

• Pros: Simple construction; no power loss to oil; quick and crisp engagement.
• Cons: Prone to overheating and wear; louder operation; generally shorter lifespan.

Dry clutches often require more frequent adjustment or replacement of plates. Riders should adjust cable free-play correctly and inspect the friction plates regularly.

Because they run hot, a dry clutch may need a “clutch burnout” (running it in high gear) after wet conditions to clear water and moisture.

Multi-Plate Clutches

motorcycle multi-plate-clutch

Nearly all motorcycle clutches are multi-plate designs, whether wet or dry. A multi-plate clutch stacks several thin friction discs alternately with steel plates in a compact housing. Multiple plates greatly increase the contact area and torque capacity without needing a huge diameter.

In fact, a multi-plate setup can transmit much more torque than a single large plate of the same space. This is why almost all bikes use multi-plate clutches – they fit all that grip in the small engine case.

• Pros: Very high torque capacity in a compact space. Reduces the size/weight of the clutch for a given power.
• Cons: More complex and expensive than a single-plate design. Heavier feel on the lever due to many springs. Engagement can feel slightly “softer” (not instantaneous) because power has to transfer through several plates.

In practice, wet clutches are usually multi-plate as well. Some bikes have a wet multi-plate clutch (common on street/dual-sport bikes) while a few exotic bikes use a dry multi-plate clutch (e.g. certain Ducati sportbikes).

Slipper (Back-Torque Limiter) Clutches

slipper clutches

A slipper clutch (or back-torque limiter) is a special clutch designed to prevent rear-wheel hop during aggressive downshifts. Under hard braking, engine braking can make the rear wheel try to speed up relative to the engine, causing the clutch to momentarily slip.

A slipper clutch includes ramps or cams that allow the clutch to partially disengage when the back-torque is too high. This smoothes out engine braking, keeping the rear wheel from locking or skidding. The mechanism is especially valuable on race bikes or spirited street bikes where rapid downshifts are common.

• Pros: Prevents rear-wheel lockup and hop under hard braking. Absorbs excess engine braking, so downshifts are safer. Allows very aggressive corner-entry downshifting without upsetting the bike. Reduces shock load on the drivetrain.
• Cons: Mechanically complex and relatively expensive. Heavier and may require extra maintenance (though many designs are oil-bathed like normal clutches).

Most modern sportbikes include a slipper clutch for performance riding. It is typically a wet, multi-plate clutch with additional slip ramps. Off-road and commuter bikes may omit it, but almost all race bikes and high-end sport models use slipper clutches to improve stability.

Centrifugal (Automatic) Clutches

centrifugal clutches

Centrifugal clutches engage automatically based on engine RPM. They use weighted shoes or ramps that “throw out” under centrifugal force as the engine revs rise.

At low RPM, the clutch is disengaged (so the engine can idle without driving the wheel), but as RPM increases the weights press outward, clamping the shoes to the drum and transferring power.

This type of clutch is common in mopeds, scooters, mini-bikes and beginner motorcycles (like small trail bikes), where an automatic engagement is desired.

• Pros: Fully automatic and simple – no clutch lever to operate. Prevents stalling at low speeds. Low cost and easy maintenance (fewer parts).
• Cons: Cannot handle very high power – limited torque transmission. Some power loss and slipping are inherent in the design. Can overheat under heavy use or when slipping at a stop.

Centrifugal clutches free new riders from clutch control, but they are not used on full-size sport or touring bikes. All automatic scooters (with a CVT) still often incorporate a centrifugal clutch to smoothly transition power.

Cable-Actuated vs. Hydraulic Clutch

Motorcycles typically use one of two methods to actuate the clutch lever: a cable (mechanical linkage) or a hydraulic system.

Cable-Actuated Clutch

A steel cable connects the lever to the clutch release. When you pull the lever, the cable pulls on the clutch plate assembly. This traditional system is simple and inexpensive. It is easy to understand and allows the rider to adjust cable slack manually.

• Pros: Very low cost; simple to maintain (lubricate or replace the cable).
• Cons: Cable stretch and friction can make the lever feel stiff over time; requires periodic lubrication and adjustment to prevent sticking or drag. In cold climates a cable can freeze or corrode if not properly maintained.

Hydraulic Clutch

This system is analogous to a hydraulic brake. A reservoir at the lever supplies fluid to a slave cylinder at the clutch. Pulling the lever pressurizes fluid, which smoothly pushes a slave piston to disengage the clutch.

• Pros: Much lighter lever pull with very consistent, smooth engagement. The system is self-adjusting for wear – you rarely have to tweak it. Riders often find hydraulic clutches easier on long tours or in stop-and-go traffic.
• Cons: Higher cost and slightly more complex (master/slave cylinders, hoses). If leaks occur or fluid absorbs moisture, it requires bleeding and replacement, just like brake fluid. Some riders also feel the engagement point can seem “softer” or less tactile than a cable clutch.

Overall, hydraulic clutches are praised for their smoother operation and lighter lever pull, whereas cable clutches are cheaper, easier to fix on the road, and preferred by riders who like a very direct feel.

Many modern adventure and cruiser bikes use hydraulic clutches (or even electronic clutches, discussed below) for convenience, while budget sport and dirt bikes often still use cables.

Other Clutch Innovations

• Diaphragm-Spring Clutch: Some clutches use a single diaphragm (disc-shaped) spring instead of multiple coil springs. This provides even clamping pressure and a lighter overall mechanism. Diaphragm clutches are common on heavier or larger-bore bikes to handle more torque with a lighter lever feel. They are compact but cost more than coil-spring clutches.
• Electronic Clutch / Dual-Clutch Transmissions (DCT): A few bikes now use electronic or automatic systems. For example, Honda offers an E-Clutch that automates the traditional clutch lever using sensors and actuators, letting you ride without pulling the lever. Even more advanced are Dual-Clutch Transmissions (used on some Honda and BMW models), which use two clutches to shift gears automatically. These systems eliminate clutch work for the rider. They are more complex (and expensive), but they demonstrate how clutch technology continues to evolve. (For most riders, a manual wet multi-plate clutch is still the norm.)

Motorcycle Clutches Selection by Riding Style

Different clutches suit different riding needs. In general:

Street/Commuting: Most street bikes use a wet multi-plate clutch for reliability and smoothness. In heavy city traffic, a hydraulic wet clutch is ideal for light lever feel.

Sport/Racing: High-performance and race bikes often use dry clutches or wet clutches with slipper mechanisms. Dry clutches (as on many sportbike race replicas) give the quickest engine response. Slipper clutches are almost universal on race bikes to allow extremely fast downshifts without rear-wheel lockup.

Touring/Adventure: Long-distance bikes favor heavy-duty wet clutches and hydraulic actuation for durability and rider comfort. A hydraulic wet clutch on a touring bike can handle high mileage with minimal effort on the lever.

Off-Road/Dirt: Trail and motocross bikes typically use wet multi-plate clutches with very strong springs to prevent stalling in low-speed, high-load conditions. These clutches are also often slipper-type or have a slipper function to absorb engine braking when rolling over obstacles. Durability is key off-road, so the cooling effect of an oil-bathed clutch is beneficial.

Scooters/Beginner Bikes: These use centrifugal automatic clutches for ease of use. No manual shifting of the clutch is needed – the clutch engages as you twist the throttle, making them ideal for new riders or urban commuting.

In summary, wet multi-plate clutches are best for everyday riding due to their longevity and quiet operation, while dry/slipper clutches excel in performance and racing scenarios. Hydraulic clutches are preferred in long-haul and off-road bikes for light lever feel.

Richard R

With over 10 years of experience working on cars and trucks Item Training Supervisor Richard Reina is known around the office as one of our technical experts & real an "automobile person".

His rate of interest began, in his very own words, "at the age of two when his father educated him the distinction in between a Chevy and a Ford. Since then it's been cars regularly."

As a serious lover of practically all things with a motor Richard can address nearly any kind of inquiry related to car upkeep, fixing, or restoration & is a fact professional in electric motor background.